Verona, Italy

On our way to four nights in Verona.  Down and around the mountains through La Spiza to A1, 15 tunnels and 20 mountains later we arrive in Verona, Italy.  Little did we know that the view could get better than Cinque Terre, but was matched by Verona's mountains and beautiful city.   Our B&B, Bacia di Luna ( Kiss the Moon) was meet with a gated entrance and driveway surrounded by mountainous views and a beautiful array of flowers.   The owner, Luzia was there to greet us with a smile upon arrival.  She showed us to our room with wide open windows, a huge  bathroom that was newly done with Jacuzzi.    Luzia's husband was kind enough to drive us into town and give us a quick tour of the area.  We arrived to the city to have lunch and dinner and walk along the streets.   Mixed in with the old was some very high end shops, Versace, Gucci and the such.   The piazza near the arena was filled with restaurants with seating outside.  We visited the location of Romeo and Juliette.  It was a small enclave where people posted love sonnets with the famous balcony and a statue of Juliette.  People gathered to get there picture taken with the statue with your right hand on her breast of Juliette,  its suppose to bring you good luck.   Luzia had mentioned we should try  Risotto with Amarone wine, its a local specialty. Amarone della Valpolicella, usually known as Amarone, is typically  a rich Italian dry red wine made from the partially dried grapes of the Corvina.  (We later go to a local winery and taste it first hand).  So we were on a quest to find a restaurant that is serving this. We found Ristorante Pizzeria Nostro Azzurro, it was magnificent.  Excellent recommendation, Luzia.  One thing I noticed is that risotto when ordered is only for two.  The cost was 25Euros but it was delicious. The only regret was that we didn't have room for pizza.  Every table was ordering pizza and it looked great. 

The next day we had breakfast on the Terrace.  We planned on going on a wine tour today, but when we got there it was closed on Sunday, so we decided to go to San Giorgio.  Unfortunately our GPS took us to another town with the same name.   Twist and turns for an hour took us to a town where bikers and hikers went.  So we decided to make the most of it and have lunch.  Joe had Grilled Polenta with soft cheese and Lardo.  I had gnocchi with brown butter and sage.  What a treat.  After lunch, we decided to go to Lake Garda which was about an hour ride from where we were.  What a great decision.  We arrived in Lizise and before we knew it we were on the lake walking the promenade with shops and restaurants abound.  We stopped for a beer and a spritz.
We took a ferry to the neighboring town Bardolino.  For 6 euros we were able to hop around the different towns along the lake.  The scenery was beautiful.  Bardolino was similar to Lazise with its small shops and restaurants.  The beauty of these small towns is what will bring me back someday. We had dinner back at Lazise with pizza and salad.  Our drive back to Verona was about 45 minutes.  When we got back to Verona we sat up with another couple from Germany and talked about life for at least 2 hours.  The next day they left and we were off to Venice...

Off to Pisa to drop off my father at the spa, Bagni Di Pisa.  We didn't stop to see the Leaning tower of Pisa because we had a long ride to our destination.   For the next two days we our on our way to Cinque Terre.  We drove through La Spiza which is a city on the water similar to home with a port and high rise buildings but our ride has only just begun. 

Our ride up the mountains was close to 200 plus turns, gasp!!  But the scenery was magnificent to see to say the least.  Finally we arrived at Cade Ventu with one more miss turn that only wine and beer could help.  So we thought that Pienza's view was out of a picture well this one topped it.  Our villa sat on top of the mountain overlooking the Cinque Terre ( 5 towns).  We relaxed that night sipping wine and having dinner,  the owner made us dinner, spaghetti with pesto and fried olives.   Basil pesto originated in this area, so it was a must try.  

The next morning we had breakfast on the terrace.   We decided that we would ride the bus down the mountain and experience the hair pin turns and near collisions with on coming traffic on the bus.   Our first stop, Vernazza.  It is a very busy town with a lot of tourists coming off the cruise ships, small shops, cafes and a small port.  It was nice to sit on the edge of the dock and watch the water pound up against the rocks.   We took the train ride to Corniglia which took five minutes.  Then the fun began, with at least 400-500 steps up the mountain.  It was very challenging.   

For lunch we ate in a ristorante along the walkway.  We ordered fresh anchovies with lemon and oil, and a Napoli, which is a classic pizza with anchovies and capers. Anchovies are at there freshest here so it was a must.  Then we took the train to Montorrosa, WOW what a beautiful beach town with shops and cafes right on the beach.  Sorry we didn't bring our bathing suits.  The weather was perfect.  Then we took the train to Riomaggiore which took about fifteen minutes.  By the time we reached there it was time for dinner.  For dinner we stopped at Veciu Muin in Riomaggiore,  we had Seafood Antipasti with white and brown anchovies, again, mussels, two smoked fish served with a shrimp egg pancake.  It was very fresh and delicious.  We heard Led Zepplin music playing in the back ground and walked across the way and stopped in for a few beers to listen to some music.     After this, we went to our villa and brought back with us a focaccia from Montarossa and had it with some Pecorino cheese that we brought with us from Pienza and paired with wine for later that evening, as we watched the sunset and relaxed the rest of the night.  These two days were very challenging but relaxing.

Day two we traveled two hours north to Pienza, Italy in Tuscan region near Montepuciano.  Famous for its red wines and Pecorino cheese.  And as I will soon come to love, I discovered Truffles which is in abundance in the area.  We stayed at the Hotel Relais 11 Chiostro di Pienza.  It was once a convent, so you know it was beautifully kept.  The rate was $85 Euros which was a steal.  When I first walked out to the terrace I thought I walked into a painting, the rolling hills, the picturesque villas scattered at the peak of the mountain with the cypress trees.   This is one view I will always remember.  The town is set up like most of the Italian towns built surrounded by a wall with all little shop keepers from the butcher (Macellaio), the Cheese (Formaggia),  gelatio, News Stand (tabacchi) and trinket shops. 

We came to a court yard that had a restaurant or two each with outdoor seating with large umbrellas and cascading flowers along the balconies with wrought iron verandas and perfectly structured windows. We sat for lunch and ordered the house wine, Sperone Nudo.   Joe had a meat board and I had Panzanella, a beautiful blend of bread, cucumber, red onion, scallions, and olive oil.  I finished lunch with tiramisu cream and caramel, Spectacular.  It was so good we returned for dinner.  This isn't something that I typically do, but the food was so good that I figured the dinner can only be better, and I was correct.  We started with gnocchi with walnuts in a cream sauce, artichoke hearts,  and finished with spaghetti and black truffles. This turned out to be the best meal I have ever eaten.  All simple with a few ingredients to make this a perfect dinner.  This spot,  if in the area again will be a definite return.  I recommend this town, hotel and restaurant, perfecto!!

Day One in Roma, Italy

Our first day was exciting to say the least.  We were delayed for three hours in Philly but were able to squeeze in lunch and dinner and a nap once we arrived in Italy.  I even was able to meet with my nephew who is living here for a few months.  Joe was very thirsty when we landed and throw the waiter a curve with his first drink order, a one liter of Italian beer. 

We had lunch at Cucina Italiana Cotto.  I had salmon thinly sliced with arugula, feta cheese and sliced orange . Very lite and refreshing selection for lunch. 

Joe couldn't resist getting a pizza with salume, very good,  served uncut with a knife and fork.

A stop in Rome can not be complete without a stop at the Trevi Fountain.  With thousands of people from all over the world and from every walk of life gathering together to marvel at one of Italy's and the worlds famous fountain.  I've grown to love it so much that I called our restaurant by its name.

Walking the streets can be very inspiring being in the food business with all the food that is on display.  From the sandwiches, to the pastry shops, everything in abundance and beautifully made.

For dinner we went to my father's favorite restaurant, Macaroni, its located in the Pantheon area.  We started with Proscuitto, Mozzarella and Pecorino, walnuts and honey.  For dinner, I had tornelli carbonara, excellent. 

We finished the night with a night cap with my nephew in Piazza Nuovona.

(Pictures to come, my computer is giving me a hard time with downloading them, I will post some on TreVi's facebook page)

Discovering the origin of the food we eat

One of the things that is the most exciting part of Italy is not the beautiful scenery, the historical architect, the amazing people but the fact the food we have become familiar with in our everyday cooking originated in the small towns across Italy.  We will be making our way through Italy discovering the origin of these finds.  Parma, Italy is the origin of Parmesan Cheese, and Parma Prosciutto.  In Modena, Italy is where we will discover where balsamic is known for its distinct taste.  

Research

One of the most exciting things about Italy is that every region every town has its own story.  They are all different in there own way.  One of the towns Pienza is known for Pecorino Romano cheese,

Preparing for a vacation

The last few weeks preparing for my vacation, warrants a vacation.  I don't know if its just me, but the amount of extra time I have put into work so that I can leave on vacation is insurmountable.  I have added an extra three hours a day to my day to prepare for everything I need to do, just so I can leave with a clear head.  One, I have to make sure all my staff are in place.  In the last two weeks, I have had two staff put in there two weeks notice, one gave me a months notice and is leaving to move up north while I'm away.  Another said they didn't understand why they couldn't have a vacation while I was away, that they deserve a vacation too,  and yet another told me he was going to Israel the same time we are away. I almost lost my mind.  It all worked out and from the looks of things, I think the rest of the staff are afraid to take off.  So, that's one hiccup. The next is making sure my house is in order.  All the bills need to be paid while away, I don't want anything sneaking up unexpectedly.  Now that I'm nine days away, the sorting of the clothes and what I need to bring is on the list.  My hair needs to be cut and colored and so do my nails.  I have to cater a wedding three nights before I leave,  a graduation party, and a christening as well as run my restaurant through the weekend.  I also have to have in place all my orders and staff for the day after I return, I have a catered wedding that I need to be ready for.  I'm telling you now, I will need this vacation to recover from preparing for this vacation.  It will all be worth it, once I'm on that plane, to Roma.  Ciao

Ten days to Italy

Ten Days to Italy.........

The Tickets are purchased, the rental car is booked and the hotels are ready.  First I need to mention the amazing price I paid for the tickets.  Non Stop from Philadelphia International airport to Roma Italy, $495.  I can't believe this amazing price.  I usually travel out of Newark or JFK because the prices and options are so much better than Philadelphia, But not this time.  It pays to be persistent.  Constantly looking online and once it hit this price we booked it.  Within minutes it went back up to $1200.  Part of the experience of traveling is  exploring different regions online and doing  research and finding and picking where you want to go.  We knew we wanted to explore new areas.  This being our fifth time to Italy we didn't want to go back to the same locations, Roma, Firenza, Almafi Coast, Tuscany, and Naples.  We never visited Venice, Bologna, Verona and the Cinque Terre area so that was a start.  The last few months have been exciting exploring the different hotels, B&B and villas in these areas.  Preliminary plans so far;

Once we land in Roma we will stay one night to relax from the long trip over the Atlantic Ocean.  Then to Pienza for a night, which is in Tuscan Region.  Its really hard to drive through Tuscany and not stop for a sip of wine and a dinner.

Then to Pisa where we drop off our father to stay in a spa/hotel for the next six nights.  Joe and I will spend the day in Pisa, to see the statue that leans a little to the left.   Then we  will stay two nights in Cinque Terre in a villa that sits on a mountain that overlooks all five towns.  From there we will travel to Verona and stay four nights,  the home of Romeo and Juliette.  Here we booked another villa that overlooks the  town of Verona.  While in Verona we are planning day trips to Venice, Bologna, Modena and Parma.  In each of these areas we will share the areas food and wine.   Photos and descriptions will follow.    What new pizza or pasta dish will we discover?  What new ingredient will we bring home.  Follow along on our trip with us and discover the beauty of the people, the food, and the wine.